The other side of the Legends of the Fall

Location: http://www.estanciacristina.com

It is Christmas day and I’m in my own little version of Legends of the Fall here at Estancia Cristina.

Its just sublime, accept there is no Tristan, Brad Pitt or the lovely Sir Antony Hopkins, or 3 boys off to war fighting over a woman or for me.  Well maybe that’s not so true, there is no war here! 

I’ve been sitting in my lovely room, in a cottage in the middle of bubblefuck and icebergland in Patagonia, with a needle and thread sowing up my True Religion Jeans.  Thankfully they have split in the ass because they are cool (phat) aged jeans, and not because my ass has spread like the Patagonia Icebergs have over the last 2000 years.

On this stretch of my trip for my first night, I’m with an English couple together for 7 years, however just married in November and a French couple who look like they’re reliving their youth.  Michel (the French dude) pulled out a harmonica when we got shown to our cabins and stood on the porch like a mountain man, playing a wild tune, the sound echoing beautifully, whistling through our little private valley.  It was really something.  I love these little moments in life you know, random and the often the best.  Short-lived was this group as they had to leave early because of poor weather and the boat wouldn’t sail on Christmas Eve (the only way here is by boat for 2 hours through the Glaciers).  It really did become my own little retreat then until the next lot of guests arrived on Christmas day.  How harsh. 

The Estancia team is also what makes this experience so great.  Great formulae, everything is included in the price (bar the alcohol tab – pardon the pun) all incredibly attentive and all very well chosen.  Many have become my new amigos. The Sommelier Andrea especially, who has been treating me to some of the best wine Argentina has to offer.  I hate to think what my bar bill will be?

Soli my hostess is a gem and has looked after me like her best friend who has just come to stay.  Mariano my outrageously gorgeous Argentinean guide has held my hand through the glaciers and up mountains to show me the best views Cristina has to offer.  Walking back from the Glacier Upsala the day before last, we got talking.  He was very impressed I was a woman traveling alone and 37 for that matter.  He felt I was so brave. He was right, it did take courage. 

He helped me understand about how the Argentinean men loved, it seemed that every man I met wanted to talk about they way they loved.   He told me that blondes like me didn’t exist in Argentina. I was incredibly rare, his eyes smiling more and more at me.  Yes, I wanted to tell him I was utterly unique, and that there was nothing common about me, or rather that in a week’s time I’d have brown roots! I didn't choose either.  I did try to reciprocate in some way by helping him to understand that I didn’t have the pleasure of enjoying the sight of such fit, supple brown skinned, dark brown lush lashed eyed men either in Singapore. 

The hike was 4 hours, so we got plenty of time to talk. He encouraged me to find out what it was like to let an Argentinean man show his love for me.  We were hiking, the wind was up, the cold was pushing through my jacket so I could feel it on my skin, and yet all I could think was I was having a tender,  moment with a man,  who I might add, was making me feel like a beautiful woman despite a puffy  North Face Jacket and baggy ski pants. I felt like a Princess in the Legends of the Fall Valley.  As we walked back to the main houses, he pointed to my Cabin, “The middle one and at the last window, is that one yours?” he looked at me and didn’t turn his gaze until he saw my response.

That day I have found my poncho – the mandatory member of an Argentine wardrobe. These carpets over your shoulders are vital, and I’m now in love with my new one. I fell asleep in the afternoon, siesta time, curled on the top of my bed; tired, toasty, feeling so yummy, warm and fuzzy on all fronts.

At dinner, the sommelier Andrea has chosen a bottle of wine for me – it’s seriously good. Seriously. After drinking Vino Toro out of a carton across the Andes, it’s like velvet on my tongue. In Argentina they call this a “select” wine; Catena Zapata 2004, Agrelo, from Estiba Reservada. It’s stamped with a number, apparently very official; what’s more, it comes in a little grey hoodie. No, it’s an alpaca grey sleeve with face cut out of it for the label and a red tie, it’s rather lovely, and it’s coming home with me.

With wine, comes dinner, and for the menu du jour:

Estradas

Proveleta Patagonica con Ensalada verde y vinaigrette de Tomates secos

Which is Spanish for:

Patagonia Provoletta with Green Salad and Dried Tomatoes Vinaigrette

Platos Principales

Cordero Braseado con Tuberculos Asados en Manteca de Limon y Tomillo

Translates to

Grilled Lamb with Grilled Tubers in a butter of Lemon and Thyme

Postres

Bizcocho Humedo de Chocolate, Ganache de Chocolate y Naranjas

Which literally means love muffin me up! Just heaven on a spoon! 

My Legends of the Fall Estancia is well known for it’s gastronomic prowess.

Which translates to - the food is to die for.   The chef is my new friend too. He comes and personally delivers me my meals.  We shake hands, I say “Bueno”, he then leans in and kisses me on the cheek. Then I blush and give him a huge smile.  I love this place. How can life become better than the movies I ask you?  It’s so special. What the other guests must think I have no idea.  Nor do I care.  I think it all started because I just simply sent Soli into the kitchen on the first night to tell him his food was magnificent and since then, he’s in love. I’m in love. Again, I’ve fallen in love with every one here.  Didn’t realize I had so much love to give, well, that’s lie.

And then last night, the Chef hung up his apron, came out at five to Midnight with a glass of champagne for me and leaned in to kiss me on the cheek. I blushed and kissed him right back – on the cheek.  Bless his cotton socks, he literally turned and rushed out of the dinning room into the night.  I got a bit welled up, it was really gorgeous.

The other side of this Estancia is that it us situated on National Park and boundaries, excluding Antarctica, by far the largest ice body in the Southern Hemisphere.  The South Patagonia Ice Field, and Upsala Glacier where I hiked to. In fact it’s third largest in the world.  These glaciers are moving constantly, breaking off in huge ice wafers; a sound that crackles, chilling to the bone. You’re excited to hear it, but never quite prepared for it. It surpassed any crack of thunder I’ve ever heard.  The Upsala Glaciers has moved so much in the last 3 years, shifting vast amounts of ice, over a 4 kilometers block in fact snapped off and is floating down stream into Lake Argentina.  Where is a geologist when you need one?

As I leave my valley today aboard the boat, we sail back out into this iceberg field. As a tourist it’s stunning, as a geologist I’m sure it’s far more devastating.  It makes me wish I paid more attention at school, or rather, keen as mustard to learn more as an adult. GOOGLE! 

These broken icebergs are the most exquisite blues – like a sapphire my mum used to wear.  My instrumental music distracts me from the environmental banner of look at this An Inconvenient Truth staring right at me. Another distraction is it has now become trendy to catch and break some off for your G&T.  With both, I slip into fancy zone and look for shapes, a sharks head, a lemon meringue pie, a frogs face, all making the sides of my mouth curl up. These icebergs were glistering in the sun like someone had left the hot tap dripping on them.

I was suffering a pang of separation anxiety again, but nice inner warmth, I’d had a wonderful time and lovely Christmas with the scenes Legends of the Fall.  I didn’t feel alone at Christmas at all, quite the opposite. I had such a magic time; Santa even came to visit on horseback.

I have two more components of my trip to go, but for me right now, if the boat sank, I would be happy.  I’ve been an extremely fortunate woman.

I shall go and stand at the front of the boat, put “My heart will go on” on the ipod, and stretch my arms out and let my hair flow in the wind.  Where is Jack when I need him? Regardless, my feet aren’t quite touching the ground at the moment.

Again, I would recommend Estancia Cristina to any family, couple of single gal looking keen to explore Patagonia. Excellent, 5 star rating. 

If there was such a thing as a food-a-holic, this when they need to cart me off to rehab.  Nah, I’ll just start the 12 steps when I get back to Singapore. Dieting when the world is offering such fine cuisine on holiday is sacrilege. I should work it all off on the next part of my journey.  As for my new amigos, I was truly made to feel part of the clan, our prolong parting embraces made my Christmas retreat all the more special and me, warm and fuzzy. 

Next, I head to Torres del Paine to trek and kayak in Chile for 7 days. 

Merry Christmas to you all where-ever you are the world.  I hope that you have been given lots of hugs, warm smiles and a glass a Champagne handed to you with a kiss on the cheek too!

Love, love, love. Viva Argentina.

TBS xxx

I wonder how environmentally active I will become when I return to real life?